Paris Guide: Mon Marais Manifique

One year ago I moved to Paris to study. Luckily, the city of lights is so much more than the Eiffel Tower and Champs Elysées. This is a guide to Marais.

Besides my struggles to juggle the irregular French verbs (which I never really learned to effectuate au façon intuitive) and taking courses in Fashion & Luxury Goods Markting and French Civilization, I had  seven wonderful months to reconnoitre my hood-nuveau: Le Marais.

With the summer-season dwelling upon us, I find it only natural to share some inside tips to mon Marais manifique, should you happen to have this destination printed on your boarding pass this summer. 

Marais is like a little village of its own, situated in the middle of Paris, in the 3rd and 4th arrondissements. It is compact and charming, with narrow pedestrian streets, speciality and and delicatessen emplettes as well as niche, high-end boutiques.

In the 18th century Marais housed the Parisian aristocracy and the traditional old mansions still sets the scene. However, after the fall of the royalties and the French Revolution the area was deserted and became a dirty, neglected neighbourhood (hence the name: Marais = swamp). 

The nobility moved the the left bank area of Saint Germain and around year 1900 a Jewish community began forming in the heart of Marais, around one of my favourite streets, Rue des Roisers. It is very easy to walk right past it without even noticing, as the street is so narrow you wouldn't want to pass a car here. Despite this fact, the street is still today bursting with life and Jewish traditions. The bakeries and eateries are all kosher, you can find the most beautiful menorahs in several outlets and all kinds of orthodox headgear is sported as if it was the latest scream from Paris. In Rue des Roisers you'll also find the most hyped falafel-place in town: A teeny place with a green facade, which could also easily be overseen, were it not for the ever-present queue of a chick-pea-ball-hungry crowd. It is rumoured to be the top-pick of several superstars, including Lenny Cravitz. 

After the Jews habituated the area came the gays. Especially the lower part of Rue des Archieves holds a notorious reputation of being particularly gay-friendly. My little rented studio apartment was located in the upper part of the street. I remember my first days after I arrived and walked down the street as a single girl, I was thinking to myself: "Hey! I surely landed in the perfect area - Look at all the guys!". However, my testosterone thrill only lasted mere seconds, until I realised something smelt funny. The guys paid absolutely no interest in my long legs or blonde hair, which usually are fool-proof spells south of the Danish border. On the other hand, they seemed a little too smitten with starring into the eyes of their male companions. Darn. That said, it was wonderfully lively to share street-premises with the gay crowd as 1) they are always out and about 2) they never hit on or harm you. 

Inevitably, with the gays comes the fashion crowd, which now makes Le Marais the magnificent constellation of contrasts it is today: The dignified 18th-century architecture framing the melting pot of orthodox Jews, complete with top hats, long beard, ringlets and black coats; outrageous homos dressed in spanx, latex and leashes; BCBG families with well-behaved and immaculately dressed children (how do they keep them so neat?!); and the fashion crowd (which is sometimes a bit hard to distinguish from both the orthodox Jews, the gays and stylish families, depending on the latest fashion fads). 

With this (not so brief) introduction to what I consider one of the best areas in Paris, I'll now list some concrete recs:

Faire les courses (Shop)

• The main shopping in Le Marais is centralized about the streets Rue Vielle du Temple & Rue du Francs Bourgeois. The two Rues cross each other in the midst of the neighbourghood in a little square, housing among others, brands such as Maje (j'adore!), Repetto, Sandro, Paul&Joe and Manoush. On Sundays all streets within the radius of Temple and Bourgeois are closed from traffic and are filled with a wonderful mix of Parisian trendsetters, Jews on their way to the synagogue and tourists taking it all in.  

• Rue Charlot, running between Rue de Bretagne in haute Marais to Rue des 4 Fils houses art galleries, vintage shops, showrooms and, peculiarily, three or four shops dedicated to Scandinavian and Danish art and design. Find brands such as Normann CPH, Gajol, PH, Arne Jacobsen and Børge Mogensen. 
• No trip to Paris, without a visit to the concept store Merci, on 111 Boulevard Beaumarchais. It is a dream come true of contemporary fashion, design, interior, stationary - you name it, and love it!  Maison Martin Margiella, Piet Hein, Liberty - what are you waiting for? (They have a well-assorted webshop, you can compensate with, if a trip to Paris is not in the cards for you in the foreseeable future)

Savourer et manger (Eat)

Petit dejourner

• Rose Bakery on 30 Rue Debelleyme was one of my preferred breakfast-spots. Not only was the name it self a high draw-factor for me, but it was literally just 2 seconds away from my door step. On top of that they serve the best soya cappucino in town (pretty hard to find in Paris, I dare-say). The organic bakery makes everything from the bottom and serve hearty and nourishing, vegetarian dishes for breakfast and lunch as well as always tempting with a 1000 home made baked goods, which you can cleverly smell blocks away. Sadly, their cakes are not dairy free, but I've been told they are worth their high calories. Their salads and fresh squeezed juices are out of this world!     
• Le Pain Quotidien. It hardly needs an introduction anymore, since it is the number-one breakfast/brunch/lunch pick for most international fashion editors during fashion week. And it is understandable. Their breakfast menu is lavish. The interior is rustic and homey. And the food is always good. All bread is organic and freshly baked. You can get fresh seasonal fruit. Eggs. Granola. But most importantly, Le Pain Quotidien is famous for their jams, marmalades and spreads which accompany any breakfast choice ad libitum. Their Speculoos-spread is cinnamon-celestial. So is the rhubarb jam. And yes, you can buy jars of it in the boutique, as well as delicious olive oils, tapenads, pestos etc. Try for yourself at 18-20 Rue des Archieves.

Dîner et les cocktails

• Derriere means behind. It kind of makes sense, as you have to navigate into a back street and through a small gate to find this hidden oasis. Reservations are an absolute must, as the restaurant is the lieu préféré among the chicest of the chicest. Understandable. In the courtyard you are invited by Marroccan-inspired al fresco seating arrangements - perfect for enjoying a pre- or post dinner drink. Inside the interior is very avant garde and hipster-ish: A constellation of old, new, modern, kitsch, grand, playful, sexy... The idea is that it should resemble a home with areas reminding of dining room, living room, den, boudoir. It's adorable. The crowd is hip and the food rustic, contemporary with international inspiration. I have wet dreams about their tuna tartar. Derriere, 69 Rue des Gravilliers 

• Just south of Marais, on the bank of the river is an actual little village situated: complete with a church, market, gate and all that jazz. It is trés charmant and called Village St. Paul. Well hidden away from nosey, by-passing glances you'll find the most amazing gourmet raw-food inspired restaurant. Fittingly, it is named Cru - directly translating into raw. However, it is not raw-food in the obsessive-health-nature-beansprouts-and-wheat grass-sense (which I actually happen to be fond of, too). No, it is a holistic gourmet-style eatery, which just so happen to favour the green, seasonal elements on the plate and occasionally pairing them with delicious carpaccio/tartar/seared tuna and the likes. I went there with my mum once and it was amazing and extremely presentable and decorative. Read more here.

              

• I simply adore good wine. As a result wine bars or restaurants paring the wine with food as opposed to the other (conventional) way round, gets thumbs up from me. In my favourite street in Marais, Rue Vielle du Temple, a little further up than the heath of the shopping buzz (and just across from Café la Perle, where Galliano made snide comments a few years ago and was accordingly shown the door at Dior), is a tiny place I have returned to many a time, during my stay in Paris. The place is called Glou and the style is very New York: raw brick walls, heavy wooden tables and an a la carte menu with solid, no-fuzz, simple choices such as fish of the day (always superb), burger and veggie options. Also there are seasonal variations and tapas style elements. And then there are the wines - also served by the glass, allowing you to try a few different kinds, as well as getting the ideal match for your food. The waiters are attentive and knowing and always helpful in guiding you through the wine list. Perfect for a semi-casual night out with friends. The owners have another place in Marais called JaJa. The style and atmosphere are much alike - JaJa's plus, however, is the courtyard with al fresco dining in the warmer months. Glou, 101 Rue Vielle du Temple - JaJa, 3 Rue Sainte-Croix de la Bretonnerie. 

Joire de Vivre (Enjoy)

• Paris is known for its markets. They are all like Alladin's cave, temping with tastes, smells and colours from every corner of the world. Marais is no exception when it comes to markets and actually holds the oldest covered market in Paris, open six days a week (Mondays are closed) all year round. The market, Les Enfants Rouges, is hidden and wonderfully local. Come here on Sundays around noon and the relatively small market with stalls selling couscous, gallettes, bread, fresh fish, fruit, veggies, falafel, prosciutto, olives, cheese, flowers and everything in between, is crammed with families shopping for the week to come and making an excursion of the chores and magically transforming it into quality time. It is wonderful to witness how everybody seems to know one another and greetings, orders and jokes are lively flying across the stalls between shoppers and sellers, old and young - everybody on familiar terms. People come here both to grocery shop and to eat. There are tables in the end of the market where you can eat your delicatessen. The big scoop seems to be the Marroccan couscous stall, selling bath-tub-sized bowls of exotically smelling couscous topped with lamb, veggies and a generous spectre of very alien spices. It is clear, that supermarkets in France and Paris are merely for plastic-wrapped basics such as toilet paper and the occasional carton of milk. Everything fresh is brought freshly from the market. Marche Les Enfants Rouges, Rue de Bretagne. 

• In Paris, life happens at the sidewalk cafés. One of my preferred places to drop in for a cafe espress, people watch, meet with friends, have a casual meal, a drink in the sun be it before or after noon, is Cafe Charlot. With its ideal location on the ever sun-lit corner of Rue de Bretagne and Rue Charlot the place has its natural draw. The waiters are as Parisian and rude as they come (but they warm up to you upon realising a) you speak French b) you live in the area and are becoming quite the regular c) you tip generously (which didn't happen until my last visit where i visited with my dad, who always over-tip - never has my snotty, male, pony-tailed, non-English-speaking, regular, +50 year old waiter smiled so much. In fact, it was the only time I ever saw him smile, coming to think of it). Anyway, the place just has the perfect vibe. The decor is unpretentious, yet charming, the food is edible, which is a high standard compared to the general level Parisian café food can burst of, and most importantly, the place is always full no matter the time or the day. Café Charlot, 38 Rue de Bretagne

• Whenever the sun is out (which is far more than in Copenhagen) it is quite common to just lie down flat on your back in what-ever park is nearest. I normally wouldn't recommend Place des Vosges for this purpose, but have included the green square in this guide anyway, as it is the major draw in le Marais. The square is rectangular and flanked by four massive maisons - in one of which the author Victor Hugo resided while writing some of his most famous works - including The Hunchback of Notre Dame.  In the middle of the square is a green spot, fountains, tons of people eating falaffels they have bought in the nearby Rue des Roisiers and variations of live music. Around the park, under the balustrade of the mansions there are restaurants and art galleries. I wouldn't recommend eating here though, as you are sure to be ripped off in a tourist trap serving mediocre food. But I wouldn't know as I have always kept well away.  That said, the square it self is pretty and worth a sight. 

I could go on and on - and this guide only covers a fraction of Paris - but those places you'll have to discover on your own. Or, I might be tempted to do one more Paris feature. 

Au revoir, et bon été!